I visited a hot Triangle barbecue joint’s new location. Here’s how it went

There’s a lot happening on East Cedar Street in downtown Cary right now.

A string of businesses and buildings line one side. Train tracks line the other. Vehicular traffic is slow as drivers avoid pedestrians and construction equipment needed for a new parking deck.

Meanwhile, the team at Lawrence Barbecue is busy adjusting to their new surroundings. The 4,900-square-foot restaurant marks a huge expansion from the old Boxyard RTP location.

With more room to serve more customers, restaurant co-owner Jake Wood has hired more staff, who are still learning how Lawrence Barbecue’s second iteration works.

Customers who have gone to the Cary restaurant for lunch or dinner over the past few weeks will have recognized some best-selling menu items, such as birria tacos, Texas-style brisket and pulled pork, from the old Lawrence Barbecue. “Leisure beverages” like Lawrence’s Leisure Land Lager, courtesy of Trophy Brewing, are back, too.

For this week’s On a Budget column, where a News & Observer reporter tries a bar or restaurant with a $25 spending limit, I headed over to Cary’s Lawrence Barbecue. What I got was a hearty meal and a slice of home.

https://img.particlenews.com/image.php?url=40gnOb_15XQnQyu00 — Lawrence Barbecue co-owner Jake Wood prepares a tray of food, showcasing the many varieties of meat available at the new Cary restaurant. Travis Long/tlong@newsobserver.com

Lunch at Lawrence Barbecue

The hardest thing about sticking to a $25 budget at Lawrence Barbecue, I think, is that there are too many options to choose from.

You could get a smoked meat plate — 1/3 pound of sliced brisket or turkey, traditional or carnitas-style pulled pork, or pork spare ribs — and a $5 standard side and still be under budget. Depending on your protein choice, you may be able to upgrade to a $7.50 premium side, such as three-cheese macaroni or cheesy tater tot casserole, and still pay less than $25 before tax.

Alternatively, you could go for a sandwich or burger, which comes with a standard side, such as white or red slaw, beans, tots or collard greens, and stay under the $25 limit.

You could also get two tacos or a torta, all priced at $15 or less, meaning you’ve got plenty of room in your budget to work with, should you fancy a side or even an oyster or two.

https://img.particlenews.com/image.php?url=2lQTf0_15XQnQyu00 — Smoked meat at Lawrence Barbecue is sold by weight and served with a slice of bread. Renee Umsted/rumsted@newsobserver.com

I went with the literal meat and potatoes choice and ordered 1/3 pound sliced brisket ($12.50) and a side of fries, which totaled to $17.50. With tax and before a tip, that meal ran me $18.93.

The brisket, tender enough to cut into bite-size bits without a knife, had just enough fat for my taste and a peppery bark. Each slice was as thick as the white bread served alongside it. (White bread with brisket is a core memory for this Texan.)

As for the fries, I’ll admit: Sometimes having to order sides a la carte feels rude. But that $5 order came with enough for two people to devour.

https://img.particlenews.com/image.php?url=0YIIz6_15XQnQyu00 — Customers can order standard and premium sides by the half-pint or pint. They range from barbecue staples such as red and white slaw, ‘cue beans and mac and cheese to broccoli Caesar and cheesy tater tot casserole. Travis Long/tlong@newsobserver.com

Know before you go: Lawrence Barbecue

You didn’t ask for it, but here’s my advice. If you’re going to Lawrence Barbecue, go with a friend. Order a bunch of things. Share.

Even better, go with a group. The menu is expansive, but if you’re indecisive, Lawrence Barbecue offers platters. They come with a little bit of everything and can feed as few as five people and up to 14.

Logistics-wise, given the ongoing construction next door, parking may be an issue, so be prepared. The restaurant has dozens of tables inside and will soon have outdoor seating, but visitors may still have a wait — especially during these early days after the opening and during busy weekend hours.